martes, 4 de abril de 2017

The "Alboronía", delicacy from "One Thousand and One Nights or Arabian Nights", is the beginning of all Spanish meals called "pistos"



The vitality of the word alboronía (boronia, almoronía or moronía) that the Usual Dictionary of the Academy of 1899 defines like delicacy named in  "One Thousand and One Nights or Arabian Nights", after its maximum splendor in the time of the three cultures (Jewish, Arabic And Christian), it suffers a setback (XV) to be associated to Jews and Arabs. It is documented by books as La Lozana Andaluza (Delicado) and La Gran Sultana (Cervantes). This situation could lead to a certain pejorative connotation that it caused its disappearance  over the centuries.

For the Spanish scholar Carlos Alvar, In Cervantes and the Religions, by the text we know that the Jews ate this stew that could be festive (celebrations). According to the Dictionary of Authorities (1726), this stew is served during the days when it is forbidden to eat meat. Christians ate it during Lent (Cuaresma)*. These data support the great vitality of the term in "the time of the three cultures", with the final hegemony of the Christian who denounced the converts, most of them had been accused of being infidels for a long time by their customs (culinary, hygiene, etc.). These ones betrayed them. So, we can understand the reason why in Spain, the Iberian pig is one of the most representative meats.


In the end, tomatoes and peppers from America were added to the traditional stew. They replaced some of the compromising Hebrew or Moorish ingredients (aubergine, onion, pumpkin, nuts, chickpeas, etc.), which facilitates the change of the name by another one from Latin. "The pisto" from the Latin: pistus (crushed), it possibly related to the final presence of the plate, without connotations, it was well accepted by the old and new Christians (1897 Gayangos Glos, old voices s / v: In Castile we call "alboronía" to "pisto"). In fact, the voice "pisto" has been imposed against alboronía gradually over time.

But "alboronía" is not equal to "pisto", is the principle (principĭum). The term, today, is published and has revived in the field of gastronomy, it is seeking to distinguish itself with voices that properly define indigenous dishes and highlight their history (Jewish-Arabic-Andalusian cuisine). In this case, it was widely documented by such illustrious writers as the Cordoban J. Valera,  who has claimed the voice in different works: "There was an exquisite alboronia that the famous Baghdad cook who invented it, and he gave it the name of the beautiful Princess Alboran, he could celebrate it, if he lived again ."


Lent (Cuaresma)*: The period preceding Easter that in the Christian Church is devoted to fasting, abstinence, and penitence in commemoration of Christ's fasting in the wilderness. In the Western Church it runs from Ash Wednesday to Holy Saturday and so includes forty weekdays.

SOURCES

REAL ACADEMIA ESPAÑOLA: Recursos en línea, http://www.rae.es/recursos/diccionarios [Recuperado 3/3/15]
COROMINAS, J. (1974). Diccionario crítico etimológico de la lengua castellana. Volumen I, A-C., Editorial Gredos, Madrid.
ALVAR EZQUERRA, M. (1961-1973). Atlas lingüístico y etnográfico del andaluz (6 tomos). Madrid: Arcos. 
ALCALÁ VENCESLADA, A (1951). Vocabulario andaluz. Madrid: Real información Academia española.
ÁLVAREZ CURIEL, F. (199). Vocabulario popular andaluz. Málaga: Arguval.
CERVANTES, M. (1749). Comedias y entremeses: La Gran Sultana. Madrid: Ed. Antonio Marín. [Consulta 27/02/2015] 
DELICADO, F. (1528). La lozana andaluza. Venecia: Edición digital, Alicante, Biblioteca Virtual Miguel de Cervantes, 2004.      < http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/obra/la-lozana-andaluza--1/>. [06/03/15]
VALERA, J. (1824-1905). Obras de D. Juan Valera. Madrid: Imprenta y Fundición M. Tello, 1887. [En línea] Edición digital, Alicante, Biblioteca Virtual Miguel de Cervantes: [Biblioteca de autor] [3/03/2015] <http://bib.cervantesvirtual.com/FichaObra.html?Ref=3806&portal=53. 

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